Sri Lanka’s architectural treasures

Think of Sri Lanka and, aside from images of Tamil Tiger strife, it might be hard to picture anything except palm trees, azure seas and sumptuous white sand beaches. And it is true that sinking into the sands of Mirissa or Bentota, you might be tempted to do little more strenuous than ordering a Lion lager for the remainder of your stay. But if you can summon the energy to wrest yourself from its sandy southern reaches, there is more to see than sea on this stellar island, whose architectural heritage is as rich and varied as its boutique hotels’ fine dining menus.

The obvious first step on a Sri Lanka architectural itinerary is the 17th-century walled Galle Fort, one of seven Unesco World Heritage sites on the island, and set just steps away from those glorious beaches on the south coast. Originally founded in the 16th Century by the Portuguese, work commenced in earnest on the fort in 1663 under Dutch colonial rule, when it became the country's primary port. Its maritime significance seeped away once Sri Lanka was ceded to the British in 1796, but the fort today, comprising 36 seafront hectares, remains part of a living, working city. Admire its architecture simply by wandering the streets, before taking a trip out to examine the 19th-century frescoes at the nearby Kataluwa Purvarama Mahavihara Buddhist temple, nestled in dense forest and originally built in the 13th Century. For stunning views out over both fort and sea, return to complete a full round of the Galle Fort walls at dusk, then replenish with tasty fusion cuisine at the Galle Fort Hotel, once a gem of a merchant's mansion.

Travelling upcountry to Kandy, the green hill country heart of Sri Lanka, the architectural legacy moves from colonial to religious, with Buddhist structures in abundance. Step in line with numerous pilgrims in Kandy's Unesco-rated Sacred City to visit the Dalada Maligawa, also known as the Temple of the Tooth and home to the country's most important Buddhist relic - allegedly a tooth of the Buddha. Then, to peruse the city's colonial past (it fell to the British in 1815) ramble the lanes of the British Garrison Cemetery, whose deaths, detailed on carved Victorian headstones and including sun stroke, jungle fever and rampaging elephants, paint a fascinating picture of colonial perils.

Slightly farther afield, Sri Lanka's so-called "cultural triangle" - comprising the area bounded by Kandy, Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa - hosts Sri Lanka's most celebrated archaeological and cultural sites, and four more of its Unesco World Heritage sites. Ponder civilisations long-past at Polonnaruwa, home to the ruins of a 12th-century ruler's elaborate garden city; gape at the remains of the 5th-century city of Sigiriya, built into and atop a massive granite peak. Explore the palaces and monasteries of the Sacred City of Polonnaruwa, and wander the mural-filled cave monastery of Dambulla.

And even back on the south coast, hidden behind the heat and horn-honking of Colombo, Sri Lanka's capital, you will also find a trove of architectural treasures, many legacies of the country's melting-pot religious heritage. Savour the century old, candy-striped Jami-Ul-Alfa Mosque, explore the 19th-century Kelaniya Raja Mahar Vihara Buddhist temple, visit the Sri Kailawasanathar Swami Devasthanam Hindu temple - the oldest in town - then look in on the shrine of St. Anthony's Church, where devotees stand in line to deposit offerings to its Technicolor shrines. Meanwhile, for something more modern, detour to the Lionel Wendt Centre to examine the contemporary art on display, then, come nightfall, see the light-dressed silhouettes of the Seema Malakaya on Beira Lake, two island pavilions designed in 1985, one filled with bronze Thai Buddhas and the other centred around a sacred bodhi tree.

Alternatively, if you prefer to stay in your historic architecture rather than simply walk around it, check into one of the country's soothing heritage hotels, all sure to relieve you of the stresses of a temple-filled afternoon. Sleep in Colombo's colonial era Park Street Hotel, bed down at the immaculately restored Illuketia estate near Galle, or, if urges for the beach are simply too strong to ignore, opt for an extended stay at the Dutch colonial Beach House bungalow near Tangalle, where, amid antiques and attentive staff and a personal stretch of private beach, you can experience history and hedonism in equal, enchanting measure.

Source : http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20100917-sri-lankas-architectural-treasures

 

Foodie paradise in Sri Lanka's hill country

 

The charming village of Ella may be nestled in the middle of world-famous tea plantations, but it is locally renowned for something else: delicious home cooking. The town, located in the foothills of Sri Lanka's lush hill country 200km east of Colombo, offers foodies the chance to dig deep into the country’s culinary traditions and learn to eat – and cook – like a local.

Although Sri Lanka only recently emerged from a brutal 25-year civil war, the teardrop-shaped island is quickly emerging as an Asian hotspot for intrepid travellers in search of tropical beaches and ancient temples. Its complex cuisine, however, remains largely unknown, much to the frustration of locals who are inordinately proud of their country's fiery fare, which draws on influences from Portuguese and Dutch colonists as well as culinary heavyweight India, its closest neighbour.

Meals in Sri Lanka are referred to simply as "rice and curry", which belies the wide range of delicious dishes. While many Sri Lankan specialities are vegetarian, such as pumpkin curry flavoured with aromatic fenugreek and mustard seeds, or beetroot with freshly grated coconut and locally grown cinnamon, the island nation has a long history of seafood and mutton dishes as well as “devilled” fish, prawns and chicken, so named for their intense fiery heat. Meals also usually include malum, a salad of chopped leafy greens and coconut, crispy poppadoms (a large circular piece of thin, spiced bread), dal (a type of lentil stew), coconut sambal (a spicy condiment), home-made chutney and of course, fragrant steamed rice.

Spices are a staple of Sri Lankan food, from the cinnamon that drew the colonising Portuguese to the chillies that they left behind. Ella, with its verdant hills and cool nights, is fertile ground for growing many of these spices, such as cardamom, curry leaves and turmeric. As a result, the town is renowned for its delicately flavoured dishes, which use mild coconut milk rather than hot chilli. Locals proudly declare that favourites such as tender jackfruit curry and cinnamon-spiced potato curry are among the best you will ever eat.

Ella Spice Garden started by giving tours of their family-run spice garden, which contains everything from chillies to cinnamon, pepper to pandan. When 24-year-old Chandika Madusanka realised that people wanted to learn not only how the spices were grown but how to use them, he began running cooking classes out of his family's kitchen. He received his culinary training from his mother and younger sister, who still keep an eye on things to make sure he is staying true to their recipes, including several types of curries, dal, sambal, poppadoms and spiced rice. Once the class is over, the participants sit down at the family's dinner table to enjoy what they have prepared together.

Rawana Holiday Resort, known for offering one of Ella’s most delicious and best-value dinner spreads, has also given in to traveller demand for cooking instruction. After being inundated with requests for their recipes, they typed them up and also let those with a dinner reservation come early to watch the chefs prepare the night's “rice and curry” in exchange for a small tip. The evening meal consists of a dozen small plates, including spicy curries made from whatever was freshest at the market, such as young jackfruit, okra, pumpkin or bitter melon, and the Rawana speciality, a rich garlic curry simmered in a pressure cooker until soft and creamy. Their dal, made from red lentils and flavoured with coconut milk, cinnamon and turmeric, is simple yet irresistible.

Not just a prime spot for learning how to cook Sri Lankan fare, Ella is also an excellent place to learn about the country’s storied history in the world of tea. Tea production took off in Sri Lanka in the late 1800s after disease devastated the country's coffee plantations. The cool, emerald hill country turned out to have the perfect ecosystem for the popular beverage, and it was not long before Ceylon – Sri Lanka’s former name – became synonymous with high-quality tea.

Taking a tea factory tour is a must for any aficionado of the heady brew, and there is one in the town of Bandarawela, 13km southwest of Ella. TheUva Halpewaththa Tea Factory’s guided tour shows the various stages of tea manufacturing, from sorting the fresh leaves to separating the different classes of dried tea, culminating  in a tasting on the factory’s top floor with stunning views of the surrounding plantations. If you would like to bring a taste of Ceylon home, the company sells a selection of freshly packaged teas.

Bandarawela is also known for its lively Sunday morning vegetable market, where local farmers and traders gather to sell produce and household products to crowds that come in from neighbouring towns. Ella has a smaller, more convivial market of its own on Wednesday mornings, when Passara Road is lined with women dressed in brightly coloured saris selling fresh vegetables and herbs that will be used to create that evening's dinner in kitchens all over town. Visitors staying at one of the many family-run guest houses, all of which offer home-cooked suppers to their guests, can purchase vegetables to be prepared for their evening meal – the local chefs are remarkably accommodating. In fact, most are happy to give informal cooking lessons in their kitchen. Dinners need to be reserved by midday, though, to allow enough time prepare the many exquisite dishes that make up a Sri Lankan meal.

A few days in Ella will be long enough to sample the tea, gorge on Sri Lankan cuisine and learn to cook it at home. But the town’s unpretentious charm, its culinary surprises and gracious, friendly locals will make you wish you could stay much longer.

Source : http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20130408-foodie-paradise-in-sri-lankas-hill-country

 

Riding Sri Lanka’s new wave

 

There are not many places on Earth where travellers can surf world-class waves in the morning, have a close encounter with an elephant at lunchtime and be back in the water by mid afternoon. Arugam Bay, on Sri Lanka’s eastern coast, is one such place, and since the country’s civil war ended three years ago, the small town has been busier than ever – despite how hard it is to get to.

Other than a highway from Colombo, the capital, to Galle, a city in the south, most of Sri Lanka’s roads remain practically as they were in the 1950s – which means narrow, dual carriageways shared by everyone, including cyclists, buses and trucks. As such, the coast-to-coast haul from Colombo to Arugam Bay by public bus is a 400-rupee, 320km journey that takes nearly 12 hours. It is hot, uncomfortable, occasionally terrifying and utterly worthwhile.

On a recent trip, a young man with an AK-47 boarded the noisy bus and prodded the barrel of his assault rifle into the belly of a middle-aged woman. Rather than panic and scream, she politely asked him to refrain, and the young man, a soldier in the Sri Lankan army, looked a bit embarrassed and apologised. The weapon, hanging from his shoulder, had accidentally prodded the woman as he leaned forward to stow his luggage in the cramped overhead compartment.

Well-marked busses leave frequently from the Bastian Mawatha Bus Terminal in Colombo. Alternatively, visitors can make the journey by taxi, which will take less time and has the added bonus of privacy and air-conditioning, but will cost about 16,500 rupees.

Once you get to Arugam Bay, there is not much to do. The town – nicknamed “A Bay” by locals – is basically a thin strip of road with bars and restaurants frequented by young surfers and partygoers, a smattering of places to stay, a few surf shops and not much else, but travellers are lured by the excellent food on offer, easy access to exotic wildlife and waves that are widely regarded as some of the country’s best. It seems like a place on the cusp of something, which, in a way, it is. Many of the local tourism operators, tuk-tuk drivers and restaurant staff say that 2012 has been the busiest year yet.

The hometown surfers have grown up on Arugam Bay’s many breaks, and run the town’s surf shops and schools. Safa surf shop (Main Street; 94-779-552-268) has a wide range of boards for hire, from high-performance shortboards for the more experienced, to large, stable longboards for beginners. The owner, Fawas Lafeer, or another of Safa’s friendly, competent instructors can recommend the best board to suit a visitor’s level of experience.

The next morning, as the sun was just hauling itself over the horizon, Lafeer and I decided to test out Arugam Bay’s main surf break, Main Point. As the rising sun cast an amber haze over the spray, a quick walk from Ranga’s Beach Hut brought us to the break – a fantastically easy-to-surf right-hand wave, breaking over a fairly soft reef before wrapping around the point, where it got smaller and easier for the less experienced surfers in the line-up. On a good day, rides of 500m are not uncommon. As can be expected with famous breaks such as this, the crowds were out – much of it made up with Italian and Israeli surfers.

For the crowd-averse, or those wanting smaller waves, there are other options within, at most, a 30-minute half-hour tuk-tuk ride of Arugam Bay. Pottuvil Point, an 8km drive north, is a lot smaller and easier on the learners. Whiskey Point, about 14km north, offers more high-quality waves than Pottuvil Point, fewer crowds and is the number one party beach on a Friday night. Peanut Farm, located 6km south of Arugam Bay, offers small waves similar to Pottuvil Point, and Crocodile Rock, 8km south of Arugam Bay, is another ideal spot for novices. It is named after the reptiles which frequent the beach’s lagoon (thankfully far from the surfer’s waves), and any tuk-tuk driver worth their salt will know the best time to catch the crocs bathing.

To get up close to the wildlife, visitors can opt for a conventional safari -- or ask a tuk-tuk driver to lead the way. Sadid, a middle-aged local tuk-tuk driver, took me to a collection of flat rocks covered in white stains near Crocodile Rock. A “crocodile toilet”, he said.

Since the creatures remained hidden, Sadid commandeered a thin canoe and we paddled into the lagoon to take a closer look. Across the water, a small herd of elephants, two adults and a child, emerged from the brush, and closer to the canoe, a herd of water buffalo lay all but submerged in the bleary green waters, escaping the late morning sun.

Sadid knew a spot further inland that was virtually guaranteed to be teeming with crocodiles. Turning off the main drag, Pottuvil-Panama Road, we dustily bounced west through the countryside past dried-up rice paddies; the only other people in the area were two soldiers at a military outpost. While one carried the usual Kalashnikov rifle, the other, unnervingly, brandished a shiny six-inch blade. Fortunately, as they sauntered up to the tuk-tuk, the soldier produced an apple and stripped off a few slices before waving the tuk-tuk on with a big smile “Aah, crocodiles! That way!”

The track bent around a large muddy basin framed with white-stained rocks. What seemed like submerged logs clogging the water were, in fact, crocodiles. Some basked on the shore, including a huge beast around 4m long. Having seen enough wildlife for the day, we turned back, but just as Sadid was explaining the danger of elephants in the wild, a full-size adult crashed out of the thin scrub to the side of the dirt track, 3m tall and close enough for its loud trumpeting to ring through the vehicle, making Sadid yell and focus intently on squeezing every last horsepower out of the tuk-tuk’s tiny engine. It was a lot closer – and a lot more dangerous – than a conventional jeep safari.

Back in the safety of easygoing Arugam Bay, there was still time to calm the nerves over lunch and squeeze in an afternoon surf before a few rounds of Lion beer and arak at Mambos Café, where Main Point’s crashing waves are drowned out by the club music booming through the sound system. Fortunately, a day like this is not a rare occurrence in Arugam Bay.

Where to eat
Gecko Café offers completely natural homemade fare, everything from western breakfasts to local curries.

The Green Room has cheap, fresh seafood every day, relaxing decor and laid-back indie tunes.

Where to stay
Mambo’s is one of the nicer places to stay in Arugam Bay. It is a bit pricey but the expansive bar area is the place to go on a Saturday night. The hotel, which offers three guesthouse rooms, three beach bungalows and four luxury beach bungalows, overlooks Main Point.

Ranga’s Beach Hut, a small accommodation with less than a dozen rooms, is quite affordable, and you can watch the surf from its sand-floored restaurant.

Source : http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20130111-riding-sri-lankas-new-wave/1

Getting to the heart and soul of hilly Sri Lanka

 

The train toward Sri Lanka’s towering Sri Pada mountain moved slowly, spiralling up inch-by-inch through steep ravines lined on either side by lush green seas of tea leaves. In between the tightly packed rows of trees, women clad in bright saris stooped to pick the tea at a furious pace, ripping off handfuls of green with remarkable speed, leaving each branch completely bare before moving on to the next. As the train climbed higher, their profiles gradually faded into blurry silhouettes on the landscape. As a slight rain started to fall, each woman opened a wide umbrella, a rainbow of polka dots popping up amid the ocean of green.

Sri Lanka has been a travel hotspot ever since its 25-year civil war reached a definitive end in 2009, with tourism numbers growing by 33% in 2011. In a stark contrast to the white sand beaches most often associated with the Asian island, the country’s “hill country” is an emerald, mist-enshrouded region, dominated by mountains older than the Himalayas and connected by an enduring train system, built in the 1860s by British colonialists. After two decades of war-related bombings that scared even many locals off train travel here, the end of the conflict has made the railways an attractive option again. Today, first-class observation cars with panoramic windows let leaf-peeping tourists zoom through the hill country in one day. Alternatively, you can ride alongside Sri Lankan families in the slower-moving second- and third-class trains, getting off each day to explore a slice of the region on foot.

The gateway to the hill country is Kandy, the capital of an ancient Sri Lankan kingdom that, thanks to its strategic elevated position, held off 16th-century European invaders for several hundred years longer than the rest of the island. To this day, Kandy remains the centre of Buddhist spiritualism in Sri Lanka. Clustered around a serene lake, the city is framed by two striking religious monuments — a towering white Buddha that looks down on the city from the hills and the gold canopied roof that crowns the lakeside Temple of the Tooth.

According to legend, the temple contains one of Buddha’s teeth, retrieved from the funeral pyre in India where he was cremated some 2,400 years ago, sometime in the 5th Century BC. Today, all Sri Lankan Buddhists (70% of the population) believe they must visit Kandy at least once to pay homage to the Enlightened One’s long-decaying cuspid. Inside the shrine, hundreds of worshipers pray quietly below sweeping ceiling murals that depict historical Buddhist scenes, working their way toward the gold casket said to hold Buddha’s tooth. Anyone can visit the temple and walk through, but only devotees are allowed past the heavy gilded door guarding the room where the tooth is held.

Fifty kilometres along the train route from Kandy lies the path to Sri Pada, a holy shrine of a much different nature. Ancient Sri Lankans are said to have found the 2,200m-mountain topped by a giant footprint, and thus, Sri Pada holds religious significance for each of the island’s religious groups. Hindus believe it is where Lord Shiva first set foot on Earth; Buddhists claim it as the oversize mark of their lord; and some Muslims and Christians worship it as the spot where Adam stood in penance after being expelled from Heaven.

During the December to May pilgrimage season, hundreds of Buddhists gather at the mountain’s base each morning, starting the climb a 3 am or earlier to avoid the daytime heat and reaching the summit in time to see the sunrise. They range from grandfathers with traditional flowing sarongs hanging over their bare feet to teenagers clad in polo shirts and trainers, all climbing the 5,000-odd stone steps that are illuminated by electric lights throughout the night, a glowing white line spiralling up the mountain and marking the way to the top. Upon reaching the summit, each pilgrim rings a bell paced there, one chime for every climb they have completed in their lifetime, then they jostle for a position along the summit’s edge to watch the coming sunrise.

In contrast to that mass of humanity, the hill country’s third great site, Horton Plains, is a secluded national park set on a curving plateau 25km from Ohiya, a spit-size village adjacent to the train tracks, where any of the guesthouses will arrange transportation to the park. There, thick emerald forests give way to wild grasslands reminiscent of the African savannah. At a spot known as World’s End, the plain suddenly drops off altogether and the view opens up through the mountains, stretching down 900m  to the verdant tea plantations below, on clear days even revealing a sliver of the Indian Ocean 160km away — each geographical element of this remarkably diverse island suddenly lined up together.

Yet for all of the natural beauty of the hill country, its most memorable aspect may well be the journey itself. Waiting alongside the train tracks as the perennially late locomotive rumbles into hearing distance long before it arrives. Sitting on the edge of an overcrowded train car, feet dangling over the side as the green mountains take over and the picturesque coastline fades away. Grabbing lunch from salesmen who push their way through packed cars, offering hot samosas (deep fried pockets of pastry stuffed with chickpeas and vegetables) wrapped in someone’s reused geometry homework. Settling into a seat as day turns to night and twilight adds a mischievous element to the ride, with a burst of hooting and hollering breaking out each time the train passes through a darkened tunnel. When it emerges, flashes of lightening illuminate the hills and valleys — lighting up Horton Plains, the peak of Sri Pada and the never-ending tea plantations.

Source : http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20120713-getting-to-the-heart-and-soul-of-hilly-sri-lanka

Due to the high altitude, Nuwara Eliya has a much cooler climate than the lowlands of Sri Lanka, with a mean annual temperature of 16 °C.
But the temperature changes and sometimes it can be as low as 3°C. In the winter months it is quite cold at night, and there can even be frost. although it rapidly warms up as the tropical sun climbs higher during the day.

At the heart of the southern hill country is Nuwara Eliya (Colombo 180km), Sri Lanka’s highest town and a favourite hill station during British colonial times. The town is still touted as ‘Little England’, an illusion maintained by the presence of the Nuwara Eliya Golf Club, a racecourse, the Victoria Park and excellent trout fishing in nearby lakes and rivers.

You will find the temperature can drop close to freezing at nights and log fires are a common feature of the many Tudor-style houses. Adding to the atmosphere is the spectacle of its townsfolk wrapped up in winter jackets and woolly hats, carting great bundles of turnips, leeks, marrows and cabbages to the markets. Nuwara Eliya is a great base to explore the surrounding countryside: there are many walks on offer, including hiking around the lower slopes of the thickly-forested Mount Pidurutalagala, at 2,555m the island’s highest peak. A visit to the Hakgala Botanical Gardens, a short distance from Nuwara Eliya, is also recommended.

Among the most iconic vistas of the hill country are the rolling tea estates with their vast swathes of terrain carpeted in an emerald sea. Women draped in colourful saris resemble butterflies as they work their way along the tea bushes, deftly picking just two leaves and a bud from each branch and tossing them into baskets slung on their backs.

Introduced to the island in the late 19th century by the British, tea remains of vital importance to the economy. Some of the finest teas in the world are produced in the hill country. Visit a tea factory and see how the plucked tea is dried, crushed, fermented and fired using machinery that remains largely unchanged since Victorian times.


The town's attractions include the golf course, trout streams, Victoria Park, and boating or fishing on Lake Gregory. Victoria Park is an attractive and well-used oasis. It is popular with birdwatchers at quieter times because of the good opportunities it gives to see various species, particularly the Indian Blue Robin, Pied Thrush or Scaly Thrush lurking in the denser undergrowth. The Kashmir Flycatcher is another attractive bird species found in the park. Galway's Land Bird Sanctuary, close to Lake Gregory, is another wildlife site of 0.6 km².

The town is a base for visits to Horton Plains National Park. This is a key wildlife area of open grassy woodland. Species found here include the Leopard, Sambar, and the endemic Purple-faced Langur. Endemic highland birds include the Dull-blue Flycatcher, Sri Lanka White-eye, and Yellow-eared Bulbul. The plains also has a well-visited tourist attraction at World's End, a sheer precipice with a 1050 m drop. The return walk passes the scenic Baker Falls. Early morning visits are best, both to see the wildlife, and to view World's End before mists close in during the later part of the morning.

One of the distinctive features of Nuwara Eliya's countryside is the widespread growing of vegetables, fruit and flowers usually associated with temperate Europe. This "Little England" is covered with terraces growing potatoes, carrots, leeks, and roses, interspersed with tea bushes on the steeper slopes.

The slow-growing tea bushes of this highland region produce some of the world's finest Orange Pekoe tea, and several tea factories around Nuwara Eliya offer guided tours and the opportunity to sample or purchase their products.

The 17th c. Dutch Fort at Galle, close to the island.s southernmost point, 173km from Colombo, has the distinction of being the best-preserved sea fort in South Asia.

Enter through the imposing stone bastions that encircle the sea-facing promontory and step back in time. Inside the Fort you will find that it exudes old-world charm.The narrow streets are dotted with Dutch colonial villas and there's a welcome absence of vehicular traffic. There are several museums and antique shops that display curiosities from the island's colonial era. Of the many colonial buildings, perhaps the most absorbing is the Dutch Reformed Church, containing ornately carved memorials to the city's Dutch settlers.

The Fort also hosts some of the island's most exclusive boutique-style accommodation in former villas restored to their colonial glory.

The Portuguese established the first fort in Galle. This was captured by the Dutch in 1640, after which the fortifications were expanded and the grid street system established. Further extensions were made during the British period. The passenger port gained importance, but with the construction of a breakwater at Colombo, Galle slipped into maritime decline.

Stroll along the massive ramparts at dusk. Experience the tranquil ambience of a bygone era yet see life as it proceeds: children flying kites, games of softball cricket, and couples canoodling behind the privacy of umbrellas. They all seem to enhance the magic of the Fort. Before the Dutch took Colombo from the Portuguese, Galle was their headquarters. Contrary to the Colombo Fort, the one in Galle was not only not demolished, but is one of the best preserved examples of 17th century colonial fortifications in the world, and is on the UNESCO list of World Monuments. The reason for its remarkable state of preservation is that this once busy trading town, visited by the East-India fleets and many regional traders, fell upon slack times after the Dutch had left. The development that did take place focussed on the new town of Galle, outside the Fort.

The Fort is really a walled city, with a rectangular pattern of streets full of the low houses with gables and verandas in the Dutch colonial style. An irony of history is that most of the inhabitants of old Galle, occupying the houses of the Dutch, are the descendants of the Muslim traders that the Dutch despised so much for their petty trade that violated their monopoly. The Muslims have adapted many of the houses to their own likings, closing up the verandas with woodwork to prevent their women from being seen from outside. Recently it is no longer allowed to alter any of these houses, some renovation is taking place, and private museums with handicraft shops have even been established.

There are also several interesting buildings from early British times, and an early 20th century lighttower. The fort was started by the Portuguese in 1588, but there is nothing recognizably Portuguese left. Probably parts of the thick walls, that you can walk on almost all around the town, in the sunshine and the cool breeze, with the red-tiled roofs of the houses on the one hand, and the blue ocean on the other.

The Dutch, with a force of some 2,500 men under Koster, captured the fort from the Portuguese in 1640. Fortification went on until the early 18th century. They also built an elaborate system of sewers that were flooded at high tide, taking the sewage away to sea.
For more information visit Unesco .

Or visit Wikipedia

Part hedonistic pleasure palace, part fortress and part sacred complex, Sigiriya is one of the island's most awe-inspiring archaeological sites and a leading tourist attraction.

In fact some consider it to be one of the oldest tourist attractions in the world with visitors recording their impressions in some of the earliest-known graffiti. Located north of Dambulla, 116km from Colombo, the site consists of a sheer rock that rises over 200m with the ruins of a palace on the top and a vast pleasure garden complex at the foot.

For just two decades in the 5th century AD, Sigiriya rose to prominence following a power struggle between two brothers, and an act of patricide that saw the then king walled-up alive by his son, Kasyapa. Fearful that his defeated brother would return from exile to extract vengeance, Kasyapa shifted the capital to Sigiriya.

The megalomaniac yet spiritual Kasyapa clearly had an eye for beauty. The pleasure gardens include a series of symmetric pools, channels and fountains that still spurt water after 1,500 years. Partway up the rock are the famous Sigiriya frescoes, featuring 21 bare-breasted damsels that may represent celestial nymphs, but were surely modelled on Kasyapa's own consorts.

Halfway you'll encounter a pair of giant lion's paws, part of the original entrance, which required visitors to pass through the open mouth of a lion. The summit yields a dramatic vista of the surrounding jungle and contains the foundations of the palace complex, replete with bathing pool.But all this was to be in vain.

Sigiriya is considered one of the most important urban planning sites of the first millennium, and the site plan is considered very elaborate and imaginative. The plan combined concepts of symmetry and asymmetry to intentionally interlock the man-made geometrical and natural forms of the surroundings. On the west side of the rock lies a park for the royals, laid out on a symmetrical plan; the park contains water retaining structures, including sophisticated surface/subsurface hydraulic systems, some of which are working even today. The south contains a man made reservoir, these were extensively used from previous capital of the dry zone of Sri Lanka. Five gates were placed at entrances. The more elaborate western gate is thought to be reserved for the royals.

The gardens

The Gardens of the Sigiriya city is one of the most important aspects of the site as it is among the oldest landscaped gardens in the world. The gardens are divided into three distinct but linked forms; water gardens, Cave and boulder gardens, and terraced gardens.

The water gardens

The water gardens can be seen in the central section of the western precinct. Three principal gardens are found here. The first garden consists of an island surrounded by water. It is connected to the main precinct using four causeways, with gateways placed at the head of each causeway. This garden is built according to an ancient garden form known as char bhag, and is one of the oldest surviving models of this form.

The second contains two long, deep pools set on either side of the path. Two shallow, serpentine streams lead to these pools. Fountains made of circular limestone plates are placed here. Underground water conduits supply water to these fountains which are still functional, especially during the rainy season. Two large islands are located on either side of the second water garden. Summer palaces are built on the flattened surfaces of these islands. Two more islands are located further to the north and the south. These islands are built in a similar manner to the island in the first water garden.

The third garden is situated on a higher level than the other two. It contains a large, octagonal pool with a raised podium on its northeast corner. The large brick and stone wall of the citadel is on the eastern edge of this garden.

The water gardens are built symmetrically on an east-west axis. They are connected with the outer moat on the west and the large artificial lake to the south of the Sigiriya rock. All the pools are also interlinked using an underground conduit network fed by the lake, and connected to the moats. A miniature water garden is located to the west of the first water garden, consisting several small pools and water courses. This recently discovered smaller garden appears to have been built after the Kasyapan period, possibly between the tenth and thirteenth centuries.

The boulder gardens

The boulder garden consists several large boulders linked with winding pathways. The boulder gardens extend from the northern slopes to the southern slopes of the hills at the foot of Sigiriya rock. Most of these boulders had a building or pavilion upon them. There are cuttings on these boulders that were used as footings for brick walls and beams.

The audience hall of the king was situated in the boulder garden, the remains of which are seen on the flattened and polished summit of a large boulder. There is also a five metre long granite throne in this hall. The throne is carved from the boulder itself, and is not separated from it. Another notable feature in the boulder garden is the Cistern rock, named after a large, carved cistern on top of the rock. A large archway, created by two boulders, provides access to the terraced gardens.

The terraced gardens

The terraced gardens are formed from the natural hill at the base of the Sigiriya rock. A series of terraces, each rising above the other, connect the pathways of the boulder garden to the staircases on the rock. These have been created by the construction of brick walls, and are located in a roughly concentric plan around the rock. The path through the terraced gardens is formed by a limestone staircase. From this staircase, there is a covered path on the side of the rock, leading to the uppermost terrace where the lion staircase is situated.

The Mirror Wall

Originally this wall was so well polished that the king could see himself whilst he walked alongside it. Made of a kind of porcelain, the wall is now partially covered with verses scribbled by visitors to the rock. Well preserved, the mirror wall has verses dating from the 8th century. People of all types wrote on the wall, on varying subjects such as love, irony, and experiences of all sorts. Further writing on the mirror wall has now been banned.
One such poem in Sinhala is:

"බුදල්මි. සියොවැ ආමි. සිගිරි බැලිමි. බැලු බැලු බොහො දනා ගී ලීලුයෙන් නොලීමි."

The rough translation is: "I am Budal (name of the person). (I) Came with all my family to see Sigiriya. Since all the others wrote poems, I did not!" He has left an important record that Sigiriya was visited by people from a very long time. Its beauty and majestic appearance made people awe of the technology and skills required to build such a place.

Frescos

John Still in 1907 suggested, "The whole face of the hill appears to have been a gigantic picture gallery... the largest picture in the world perhaps". The paintings would have covered most of the western face of the rock, covering an area 140 metres long and 40 metres high. There are references in the graffiti to 500 ladies in these paintings. However, many more are lost forever, having been wiped out when the Palace once more became a Monastery so that they would not disturb meditation. Some more frescos different from the popular collection can be seen elsewhere on the rock surface, for example on the surface of the location called the "Cobra Hood Cave".

Although the frescoes are classified as in the Anuradhapura period, the painting style is considered unique, the line and style of application of the paintings differing from Anuradhapura paintings. The lines are painted in a form which enhances the sense of voluminousness of figures. The paint has been applied in sweeping strokes, using more pressure on one side, giving the effect of a deeper colour tone towards the edge. Other paintings of the Anuradhapura period contain similar approaches to painting, but do not have the sketchy lines of the Sigiriya style, having a distinct artists' boundary line.

For more information Visit Unesco

Or visit Wikipedia

In the 12th century AD, the medieval capital of Polonnaruwa was one of the great urban centres in South Asia.

Today, the well preserved ruins give you the chance to experience the grandeur of this period and marvel at the artistry of the island's early craftsmen.

Located 142km from Colombo, Polonnaruwa was the island's second ancient capital. Many of the existing ruins owe their construction to Parakramabahu the Great, the last in a sequence of warrior-kings, who developed the city on a lavish scale. He is also credited with the massive artificial lake that lies to the west of the city, The Sea of Parakrama.
At the heart of the ancient city are the remains of the Royal Palace and Council Chamber. Nearby is the vatadage or relic house, a beautifully decorated circular structure with an uncanny resemblance to Stonehenge.

Among the other sites are the gal potha (stone book) - a 9m-long granite slab inscribed with the feats of a king - the Lankatilaka shrine and the supremely graceful Buddha statues at Gal Vihara, the pinnacle of Sri Lankan rock carving. The site also hosts many distinctly South Indian-style Hindu temples.

Polonnaruwa's ancient splendour cannot fail to inspire. Set amongst gently undulating woodland, the monkeys, giant lizards and birdlife in abundance seem tamer than elsewhere in the island. Even 1980s pop group Duran Duran were obviously impressed, featuring Polonnaruwa in their music video, Save a Prayer.

For more information visit Unesco


Or visit Wikipedia

Wilpattu National Park (Willu-pattu; Land of Lakes) is a park located on the island of Sri Lanka.

The unique feature of this park is the existence of “Willus” (Natural lakes) - Natural, sand-rimmed water basins or depressions that fill with rainwater. Located in the Northwest coast lowland dry zone of Sri Lanka. The park is located 30km west Anuradhapura and located 26 km north of Puttalam (approximately 180 km north of Colombo).

The park is 131, 693 hectares and ranges from 0 to 152 meters above sea level. Nearly sixty lakes (Willu) and tanks are found spread throughout Wilpattu. Wilpattu is one of the largest and oldest National Parks in Sri Lanka. Wilpattu is among the top national parks world renowned for its Leopard (Panthera pardus kotiya) population. The Leopard population in Wilpattu is still not yet known.

History

The Mahavansa records that in 543 BC Prince Vijaya landed at Kudrimalai Point (Horse Point), married Kuweni and founded the Sinhalese race. In 1905 the area was designated a sanctuary and in 1938 it was upgraded to the National Park status.

Climate

The Annual Rainfall is about 1000mm and the annual temperature is about 27.2 degrees. Inter-monsoonal rains in March and the northeast monsoon (December – February) are the main sources of rainfall.

Flora

There are many types of vegetation to be found in Wilpattu; Littoral vegetation, including Salt grass and low scrub monsoon forest with tall emergents, such as Palu (Manilkara hexandra), and Satin (Chloroxylon swietenia), Milla (Vitex altissima), Weera (Drypetes sepiaria), Ebony (Disopyros ebenum) and Wewarna (Alseodaphne semecapriflolia).

Fauna

31 species of mammals have been identified within Wilpattu national park. Mammals that are identified as threatened species living within the Wilpattu National Park are the elephant (Elephas maximus), Sloth bear (Melursus ursinus), leopard (Panthera pardus kotiya) and water Buffalo (Bubalus bubalis). Sambhur, spotted deer, mongoose, mouse and shrew are more of Wilpattu's residents.

Avi-Fauna

The painted stork, the open bill, little cormorant, along with many species of owls, terns, gulls, eagles, kites buzzards are to be found at Wilpattu National Park. Wetland bird species that can be senn in Wilpattu are the Garganey (Anas querquedula), Pin tail (Anas acuta), Whistling teal (Dendrocygna javanica), Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia), White ibis (Threskiornis malanocephalus), Large white egret (Egretta alba modesta), Cattle egret (Bubulcus ibis) and Purple heron (Ardea purpurea).

Reptiles

The most common reptiles found in the park are the Monitor Lizard(Varanus bengalensis), Mugger crocodile (Crocodylus palustris), Common cobra (Naja naja), Rat snake (Ptyas mucosus), Indian python (Python molurus), Pond turtle (Melanonchelys trijuga) and the Soft shelled turtle (Lissemys punctata) who are resident in the large permanent Villus.
From December 1988 to March 16, 2003 the park was closed due to Security Concerns the Country was facing. After nearly 16 years it was reopened to visitors. Visitors can currently only tour some 25% (75% of the park is dense forest or scrub) of the park. The best time to visit Wilpattu is during the months of February and December.

Additional Notes

Kudrimalai, or Horse Point, was visited by a subject of Emperor Claudius in 47 AD, who was blown off course by the monsoon. The local king later sent his own envoys to Rome during the time of Pliny.

Udawalawe National Park lies on the boundary of Sabaragamuwa and Uva Provinces, in Sri Lanka.

The national park was created to provide a sanctuary for wild animals displaced by the construction of the Udawalawe reservoir on the Walawe River, as well as to protect the catchment of the reservoir.

The reserve covers 30,821 hectares (119.00 sq mi) of land area and was established on 30 June 1972. Before the designation of the national park, the area was used for shifting cultivation (chena farming).

The farmers were gradually removed once the national park was declared. The park is 165 kilometres (103 mi) from Colombo. Udawalawe is an important habitat for water birds and Sri Lankan Elephants. It is a popular tourist destination and the third most visited park in the country.

Physical features

Udawalawe lies on the boundary of Sri Lanka's wet and dry zones. Plains dominate the topography, though there are also some mountainous areas, The Kalthota Range and Diyawini Falls are in the north of the park and the outcrops of Bambaragala and Reminikotha lie within it.

The park has an annual rainfall of 1,500 millimetres (59 in), most of which falls during the months of October to January and March to May. The average annual temperature is about 27–28 °C (81–82 °F), while relative humidity varies from 70% to 82%. Well-drained reddish-brown soil is the predominant soil type, with poorly drained low humic grey soils found in the valley bottoms. Mainly alluvial soils form the beds of the watercourses.

Ecology

The habitat surrounding the reservoir includes marshes, the Walawe river and its tributaries, forests and grasslands. Dead tree standing in the reservoir are visual reminders of the extent of forest cover before dam construction. Green algae, includingPediastrum and Scenedesmus spp., and blue green algae species such as Microsystis, occur in the reservoir. Areas of open grassland are abundant as a result of former chena farming practices.

There is a plantation of teak beyond the southern boundary, below the dam, which was planted before the declaration of the park. Species recorded from the park include 94 plants, 21 fish, 12 amphibians, 33 reptiles, 184 birds (33 of which are migratory), and 43 mammals. Additionally 135 species of butterflies are among the invertebrates found in Udawalawe.

Flora

Hopea cordifolia, Memecylon petiolatum, Erythroxylon zeylanicum, and Jasminum angustifolium are endemic floral species recorded from the park. Hopea cordifolia is found along the river along with Terminalia arjuna. Panicum maximum andImperata cylindrica are important food sources for the elephants.

Chloroxylon swietenia, Berrya cordifolia, Diospyros ebenum,Adina cordifolia, Vitex pinnata, Schleichera oleosa, and Diospyros ovalifolia are the common taller trees. Terminalia bellirica andPhyllanthus emblica are plants of medicinal value found in the forest. Cymbopogon confertiflorus grass species and Grewia tiliifolia bushes are common in the grasslands.

Fauna

Udawalawe is an important habitat for Sri Lankan Elephants, which are relatively easy to see in its open habitats. Many elephants are attracted to the park because of the Udawalawe reservoir, with a herd of about 250 believed to be permanently resident. The Udawalawe Elephant Transit Home was established in 1995 for the purpose of looking after abandoned elephant calves within the park. A total of nine calves, on two occasions in 1998 and 2000, with another eight calves in 2002, were released in the park when old enough to fend for themselves.

The Rusty-spotted Cat, Fishing Cat and Sri Lankan Leopard are members of the Felidae family present in Udawalawe. The Sri Lankan Sloth Bear is seldom seen because of its rarity. Sri Lankan Sambar Deer, Sri Lankan Axis Deer, Indian Muntjac, Sri Lankan Spotted Chevrotain, Wild Boar and Water Buffalo are among other mammal species.

Golden Jackal, Asian Palm Civet, Toque Macaque, Tufted Grey Langur and Indian Hare also inhabit the park. A study conducted in 1989 found that considerable numbers of Golden Palm Civets inhabit the forests of Udawalawe. Five species of mice also have been recorded from the park. The endemic Ceylon Spiny Mouse, known from Yala National Park, was recorded in Udawalawe in 1989. Indian Bush Rat and three species of mongooses are also recorded in the national park.

Birds

Udawalawe is also a good birdwatching site. Endemics such as Sri Lanka Spurfowl, Red-faced Malkoha, Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill, Brown-capped Babbler, and Sri Lanka Junglefowl are among of the breeding resident birds. White Wagtail and Black-capped Kingfisher are rare migrants. A variety of water birds visit the reservoir, including cormorants, the Spot-billed Pelican, Asian Openbill, Painted Stork, Black-headed Ibis and Eurasian Spoonbill.

The open parkland attracts birds of prey such as White-bellied Sea Eagle, Crested Serpent-eagle, Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Booted Eagle, and Changeable Hawk-eagle. Landbirds are in abundance, and include Indian Roller, Indian Peafowl, Malabar Pied Hornbill and Pied Cuckoo.

Reptiles and fish

Oriental Garden Lizards, Painted-lip Lizards, Mugger Crocodiles, Water Monitors, Bengal Monitors and 30 species of snake are found in the park. Garra ceylonensis is an endemic fish species recorded in park. Introduced Oreochromis spp., Giant gourami, Catla, and Rohu are important food fish species found in the reservoir.

Conservation

Clearing natural forests and planting monospecies cultures such as Pine and Eucalyptus are causing reduced water levels in the Walawe river. Encroachment by human settlements, poaching, illegal logging, gem mining, overgrazing and chena farming are major threats to the park. Lantana camara and Phyllanthus polyphyllus are invasive weeds affecting the food plants of the elephants. Occasions of elephants being shot with illegal muzzleloader guns has been reported.